It then started working normally again. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Hello. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. The tps will not auto reset to zero. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. I hope everyone enjoys this v. If you use your handheld to go here: And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. That's what you're seeing. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. There is no real mystery here. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Thank you. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Capability Range: Moderate EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Enjoy your Sniper! After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. Inj. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. The fix? I would start by removing the progressive linkage. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. Don't try to correct for the fuel. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. Great work, expert! Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. Please help. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Also its extremely rich at idle. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. mail today. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Thanks! Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. 63 bomb Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. Thanks for all your help Chris! By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. I had this same exact issue. The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Should the iac% fluctuate? The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load.
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